Paris FW AW 15/16 - Dries Van Noten

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Khaki, black, burgundy, mocha, cream, plum, midnight blue, emerald... All seemingly wearable colours made into non-statement-statement pieces that graced Van Noten's catwalk this season.

A cool, modern version of a fairy princesses wardrobe summed up this showcase perfectly, with utility style fabric creating over size trousers and tie-on ballgown-esque trains (with the occasional appearance of the bomber jacket), whilst luxury was left to the extras, as gold flowers and tassels peeped through the voluminous cotton, or layered over it in the form of coats, jackets and jumpers.

Hits from the likes of Blondie and Bjork, sung acapella, lingered in the air, their powerful voices reminding us of the effortlessness of the collection as the girls glided through the gilded salon of Hotel de Ville in Paris, creating a perfect, just low-key enough setting for this collection, as well as reminding us of the powerful figures that influenced the collection: Blow, Birkin and Piaggi.

Feathers, velvets, furs, molten metallic and jacquards contrasted under loose, billowy, over-dyed cottons; eveningwear was evidently the theme with influences from "the passion of the past"�?�. Van Noten mixed the nonchalance of Jane Birkin (who appeared on the frow) with the flamboyance of Anna Piaggi, whilst ensuring the collection was very wearable, very now and for the modern women, with tie on skirts, shrug off jackets, easy embellishments and loose Bermuda style shorts and trousers that were easy to move in. This ease of wear suggested female empowerment and Noten declared backstage that, "it's about passionate women".

The underlying silhouettes were of course the kimono and also the pyjama, which was mirrored heavily in loose suits and floor length jackets. Everything was designed to be layered, so "you can really mix it with a lot of pieces from your own wardrobe", said Noten. The makeup and hair was left glossy and chic, but easy to achieve, once again consolidating the point of the collection: wearable, beautiful, easy luxury for now. And that was a point very well achieved.

Also published on: www.fashioncapital.co.uk
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